| I
asked Pete Ramey for recommendations
on training my endurance horses
feet to be "Gavel Crunchers"
at a Jacksonville, Oregon, Pete
Ramey clinic.
Pete's recommendation is to
make an area containing loose
smooth pea gravel (not crushed
rock gravel) available to horses
for at least a few hours a day.
The area would need to be kept
free of manure, debris, and
loose dirt or it would become
packed down.
There are different types of round gravel. Pea Gravel is usually about pea size. I happened to use larger gravel that is between 1/2 inch to 1 inch in diameter because it was available on the property. If I was buying gravel I would get smooth pea gravel.
Soft ground needs preparation;
a wood frame helps retain pea
gravel, and construction cloth
will help keep gravel from mixing
mixing with the subsoil

Manure sticks
to gravel, so it'll be difficult
to keep clean if built in an
area that horses like to defecate,
but I think I have a solution.
My area drains well, so I will
keep it picked out, and any
that I can't clean out will
get ground into dust that can
be pressure hosed out.

The pile's on
the way to the trough, and the
direct route is a gravel-free
lane between the fence and the
gravel pile but they consistently
walk through the middle of the
pile, sometimes pausing to paw
at it. I sense that it has a
massaging quality about it. |

My horses
urinate in the gravel sometimes
anyway, so I rinse it occasionally
to eliminate ammonia buildup.
Gavilan loves
his gravel!! He doesn't spend
a lot of time standing still
on it, but he and Shatirr both
go out of their way to stroll
through 5 or 6 times an hour.
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I'm also using large rock to
cobble an area large enough
to feed the boys on, and placed
large broken rocks around the
tree, which they love rubbing
on... I thought they'd stay
off the sharp broken rock around
the tree (I'm discouraging them
from too much rubbing and chewing),
but they still go stand in it!
This combination of gavels,
rock and cobble buffs the horses
soles to build callous while
abrading the hoof wall the way
a natural environment would.
The cobbled surface allows water
to run off and is easy to rake
clean of manure and spoiled
hay. Rocked surfaces can be
occasionally rinsed to remove
manure. |
"Road base" is usually decomposed (crushed) granite with a mix of "fines" (powdered granite) and gravel. It's the same stuff that's used under asphalt roads.
There are different classes differentiated by the size of the gravel they contain. When I order road base in California, I usually get class 2.
When I use it in a paddocks that tend to be extremely muddy or soft, I prepare the surface by removing all organic material (manure, leaves and grass), then line the area with construction or landscaping cloth. This is inexpensive recycled plastic that allows water to drain but keeps whatever is on top of it from mixing with the ground beneath it.
Then I frame in the area where I want to put a road base pad with 2x6 boards to hold the base. I then fill the frame with enough road base to have it start out at least 5 inched deep , spread it out so that it is slightly higher at one end than the other (to encourage drainage), and water it thoroughly (so that water comes out the bottom of the frame) with a sprinkler.
Once it's watered I roll it repeatedly with a lawn packer or pack it down with a vibrating packer until its hard as cement. Then I rewater it and re-roll or pack it again.
If the pad is rolled hard and manure and organic material are kept off of it, it should last for several years. This pad sheds water nicely or drains if a puddle occurs and is great for feet. |